Selling, fees & tax
Card Collection Value Tracker
A ledger for what you paid and what the cards are worth now, with the profit and loss worked out per card and across the collection. It saves to your own browser and nowhere else — no account, no upload, and a CSV export so you are never locked in.
Where your data lives
In your browser's local storage, on this device, and nowhere else. Nothing is uploaded, there is no account, and this site cannot read what you enter. That is a deliberate design choice rather than a limitation: a list of valuable objects tied to a person is exactly the kind of database that should not exist on a web server, and the only reliable way to keep it from leaking is not to collect it.
The consequences are worth understanding. Clearing site data wipes it. A different browser or a second device will not see it. Private windows forget it when they close. Export a CSV whenever the list matters to you — that file is yours and it opens in any spreadsheet.
Cost basis is the number people neglect
Current value is easy to look up and satisfying to total. Cost basis is the one that makes the total mean something, and it is what a tax authority will ask for if you ever sell at scale. Record what you actually paid, including the grading fee on cards you submitted — a card that cost $40 raw and $18 to grade has a basis of $58, not $40, and the difference is real money at sale time.
Valuing the collection honestly
- Use completed sales, not listings. Asking prices measure hope. A card is worth what the last three of them sold for.
- Value graded and raw copies separately. They are different assets with different markets, and a raw card is not "a PSA 9 minus the fee".
- Subtract fees before you feel rich. A $10,000 collection liquidates for roughly $8,700 on eBay before postage. The tool shows both figures.
- Revalue on a schedule, not on impulse. Quarterly is enough. Checking a spiking card daily is how a collection turns into a stress test.
- Bulk is not worth its catalogue value. Thousands of commons are worth what a dealer pays for them by the box, which is a fraction of the sum of their listed prices.
Questions people ask about this
Is my collection data private?
Yes. Everything stays in your own browser's local storage on this device. Nothing is transmitted, no account is created, and the site has no database of what you entered. The trade-off is that the data does not follow you to another browser or device, and clearing site data deletes it — which is why the CSV export exists.
What is my card collection worth?
The sum of what each card recently sold for in its actual condition, minus roughly 13% for marketplace fees and postage if you intend to sell. Use completed sales rather than active listings, and value graded and raw copies of the same card separately — they trade in different markets at different prices.
Should I include grading fees in what a card cost me?
Yes. The cost basis of a graded card is the purchase price plus the grading fee plus your share of the postage. A card bought for $40 and graded for $18 cost you $58, and treating the $40 as the basis overstates your return on every card you have ever submitted.
How often should I revalue a collection?
Quarterly is enough for most collections, or after a set rotates, a player is inducted, or a set stops printing — those are the events that actually move prices. Daily revaluation tracks noise and, for anyone holding cards for years, produces anxiety rather than information.
Where these numbers come from
Rates on this page were last checked against the published price lists on . Grading companies change fees and pause tiers without notice — confirm the total on the submission form before you pay.